PUPPY INFORMATION

 

 

BREED SURVEYING      BRIEF HISTORY OF THE GERMAN SHEPHERD      BUYING A PUPPY      DIETS       

HAEMOPHILIA      HIP AND ELBOW DYSPLASIA      TATTOOING      TOILET TRAINING      VACCINATION AND WORMING        

 

 

Congratulations, you have chosen the most popular breed in the world.

 

We issue our puppy buyers with a comprehensive guide specific to our breeding the following is a GENERAL GUIDE ONLY. 

Your breeder must be your principal source of information and will be only to happy to help, after all they bred the puppy. 

Many of you will have owned shepherds before and for others it will be a completely new experience.  We can only advise that you do your research before purchasing what should be your friend and companion for many, many years.  Attend training classes, observe how various people handle dogs, talk to members, take advice and comments on board, analyse and make up your own mind.  Then search for that puppy that fills your ideal “type”, that is what you expect a shepherd to look and be like.

 

 

Buying a puppy

 

The ideal time to buy a puppy is 8 to 10 weeks old, the puppy will only have had its temporary vaccination at this stage, it will, on the advice of most vets, need to be protected and isolated in and around the home.  Ten days after the second vaccination your puppy will be ready for the big, wide world. Before this, the puppy may be carried when going out to the car on short trips to help it get used to travelling.  In the first few weeks, time will be spent with the pup getting to know its new home and the many visitors who come there i.e. the delivery men, postman and friends.

 

During this time the pup will learn many things, such as house training, greeting visitors enthusiastically, learning how to play, to catch, fetch, come when called and to sleep where YOU have decided it should.  The pup will have to learn to be on its own and this should be done gradually by leaving the puppy, after a cuddle, with a toy and a biscuit.  The time away can slowly be increased from 5 minutes until it is happy to be left alone for a couple of hours.  Watching for hanging electrical cords etc for puppy to get into mischief whilst you are away.

 

 

Vaccination and worming programme

 

Your breeder should have given you a schedule for you to follow. Arrange with your vet for the pup’s vaccinations – remember you should follow the type of vaccination as noted in the schedule started by your breeder. These trips to the vet are important as he will check to see the puppy’s bite, heart, eyes, ears etc are clean and you can discuss the condition of the pup, its weight, alertness and any dietary needs it may have.  If you are a first time G.S.D. owner you may wish to attend your breeder’s vet until the vaccinations are complete.

 

 

Diets

 

The products listed below are a suggestion only – it is your choice and you must consider cost and quality.

PLEASE FOLLOW YOUR BREEDER’S DIET SHEET  - they have years of experience and usually are aware of the many products on the market and what suits your dog and its family. 

 

There are many complete diets on the market where meat or additives are not required – these foods are in complete balance and are available for all age groups and performance. These products tend to sound pricey however it must be remembered you use less and need not add anything. 

 

Otherwise a combination of meat such as chicken mince, beef, mutton or lamb would be combined with a quality biscuit and additives such as vitamins, oils and calcium may be required to balance the diet completely, as directed by your breeder.

 

Fresh water MUST be available at all times

 

In summertime if you intend leaving the pup for long periods, you can freeze ice cream containers full of water, add to the water bucket on leaving – this way the pup will have cool, clean drinking water all day.  Make sure that the water container you leave is secure and cannot be tipped over.

 

 

If pup’s tummy is upset this is usually because of over indulgence or mild enteritis, you can try to starve the pup for 24 hours.

You can try giving bland foods such as mashed potatoes, boiled fish, chicken (no skin or fat), plain yoghurt and rice.  A young pup requires veterinary attention for these upsets it is better to be safe than sorry.

 

 

Toilet Training

 

Easy as pie – just be aware that as your pup wakes up it will need to go to the toilet - take it outside and stay with it, on completion LOTS & LOTS of praise.  There is little to be gained from screaming and yelling if the pup makes a mess – it doesn’t realise what it has done – it just knows you are angry.  NEVER EVER RUB A DOG’S NOSE IN IT!!!

 

 

A very brief outline on the history of the German Shepherd Dog

 

The German Shepherd Dog as a breed celebrated its 100th birthday in 1999.  Before 1899 there were German Sheep Dogs, Captain Max Von Stephanitz saw a proud dog that was, for him, the epitome of what a working dog should be.  He purchased him and renamed him Horand von Grafrath and at the same time founded the dog club that is today the biggest single breed club in the world – The Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde. (S.V.) The presidents, breed surveyors and judges have moulded the G.S.D. into a breed that receives recognition the world over as the top working dog.  The Police, Customs, Air Force, Mountain Rescue, Emergency and Disaster Services, the Seeing Eye Schools and shepherds in Germany ALL USE THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG.  In Germany great emphasis is placed on the correct pedigree – the pink pedigree – that means that the dog comes from breed surveyed working stock.  Puppies are bred from this stock, sold at 8 weeks of age, taken into the home for part of the day, although they may live in kennels.  They are trained in obedience, tracking and manwork.  They are x-rayed and exhibited in shows to gain their gradings from 12 months onwards.  They are presented for breed survey at two years of age.  Top show dogs must not only prove their trainability by gaining their Schutzhund titles of 1, 11 and 111, they also have good hips, their A.D.(Endurance Test) title.  Of course, they have their grading of V (Excellent) or even VA (Excellent Select). If you own a puppy that carries German bloodlines, you can be assured that there are generations of obedience trained, (actually trained to a much higher standard than just obedience) very good and excellent gradings and ALL with the ‘a’ stamp for good hips.

 

The motto of the S.V. is:

 

GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG BREEDING IS WORKING DOG BREEDING

 

It is believed that the first German Shepherd Dog was brought into Australia in 1920.  Our breed was feared because of the belief it would mate with the native dogs and create a “Super Dingo”.  In 1929 a Federal ban was placed on any further importation of German Shepherds.  W.A. imposed a ban on entire dogs, only sterilised animals could live here.  In the early 1960’s the G.S.D.A. of W.A. was formed many enthusiasts trained and competed at National levels.  Puppies sent from the East were sterilised at 6-7 weeks of age.  In 1972 the Federal ban on importing German Shepherds was lifted and a new era had begun.  By Christmas 1976 the ban was lifted in W.A.  and the dogs you now own are the product of many years of hard work and dedication by members past and present.  The German Shepherd dog has had to prove itself time and time again – but one thing is for sure, it is the best breed ever.  Captain von Stephanitz would be very proud of the progress the breed has made and the fulfillment of all his dreams.

 

 

Breed Improvement Schemes

Hip and Elbow Dysplasia

 

All recommended breeders should have had their dogs x-rayed and have the ‘A’ stamp for hips and ‘Z’ stamp for elbows.  The process of x-raying breeding stock has been happening for many years now and the research has been used to try and reduce (and eventually eliminate – we hope) this condition. 

 

 

Haemophilia

 

All imported stud dogs used by recommended breeders will be been tested and have a negative result for this bleeding disorder.  Because of our breeders’ willingness to test for haemophilia we have kept it at bay.

 

 

Tattooing

  

All recommended breeders have their puppies tattooed at the 7-8 week stage.  This is a positive means of identification – it can be used to find the breeder of the dog if it is lost (and in turn return it to you), it is used to identify the dog at the time of x-ray and breed survey.  Older dogs that have not been tattooed, can be allocated a number under the AUS system and this can be placed in the ear while under anaesthetic for x-raying.  Authorised persons of the local German Shepherd Dog club are responsible for tattooing the puppies. When registering you dog with the local council, please advise them that your dog it tattooed and ask that the number be placed on their records. Don’t forget to advise your breeder when you move so they can update their records.

 

 

Breed Surveying

 

The objective of the breed survey is to promote and offer guidance for the uniform development of the breed and to improve its inherent working abilities.  Dogs and bitches can be awarded the classification of 1 or 2, if it is considered they can contribute to the overall improvement of the breed.

 

Class 1 – is for animals who are anatomically and temperamentally FAR above the average for the breed.

 

Class 2 – is for dogs that are above the average for the breed

 

Aspects considered at the survey are: size, teeth, character, temperament, watchfulness, condition of nerves, confidence, strength of bone, muscular development, firmness of ligamentation, weight and condition, proportions (length to height) the head, type, pigment, withers, back, croup, fore & hindquarter angulations, front, and gait.  The dogs go through a crowd test, a one-on-one test and a gun test.  A judge or trainer can easily explain the various terms if they are unfamiliar to you. If you intend surveying your dog, it is a worthwhile exercise to attend one or two surbeys so you can understand the work and testing involved.

 

For the Breed Survey Classification: Class 1

 

SIZE:                          Dogs should be between 60-65 cms at the withers, Bitches 55-60cms

TEETH:                     Faultless, gapless, healthy dentition with the correct bite.

EARS & TAILS:       Both ear & tail carriage must be without fault – however a slight deviation from the normal should not be penalised

 

For the Breed Survey Classification: Class 2

 

SIZE:                          Dogs may be up to 66cms and bitches 61cms.

TEETH:                     They may have no more than 2 missing P1s, one P1 and 1 incisor, or 1 P2 missing.  They may have a slightly level bite or discoloured teeth (distemper teeth) providing the enamel is intact.  Dogs with serious dentition faults will fail the survey.

EARS & TAILS:       entry to Class 2 should occur where small faults of the ear and tail carriage occur.  Dogs with hooked or rolled tails, or soft or non-erect ears cannot be classified.

 

N.B.                The above comments may have varied slightly over the years due to changes at the Annual General Meetings of Council.

 

The aim of our breed improvement schemes is to increase the quality and standard of the puppy that is available to you through a German Shepherd Dog Club’s recommended puppy listing.

 

A puppy that is recommended should comply with the following ideals:

 

a)         be bred from breed surveyed parents who should have passed the Hip and Elbow dysplasia schemes,

b)                 the sire should have a certificate showing he is Haemophilia negative (if imported or from an imported mother),

c)                 be registered by the Canine Association of W.A. & will be transferred into your name by the breeder

d)                 be tattooed, vaccinated and wormed. 

e)                 be a minimum of 8 weeks of age

f)                   be healthy and clean

g)                 be accompanied by information on care, diet, worming and immunisation

h)                 go home with a sample of the diet they are currently on

i)                    be accompanied by a 5 generation pedigree and

j)                    An application for membership for the G.S.D.A.of W.A.